Waxing
Ski base and ski wax alone do not have the best gliding properties on snow. But as soon as the base and wax mix in the boundary layer of the base, a new quality is achieved. In order for this bond to be permanent, you have to apply the appropriate energy so that the wax (mainly paraffin) can bond to the base (mainly polyethylene). This is achieved, for example, by friction with cork or by a direct heat supply with the wax iron. Afterwards, however, all excess material must be removed again, as wax paradoxically brakes.
So why apply so much in the first place? Direct contact of the wax iron with the base could damage it, so there should always be a sufficient layer of wax between the iron and the base, as a heat buffer. To further reduce the risk of damage, it is also recommended to use a wax fleece.
In top-class sport, new skis are ironed and stripped several times before they come into contact with snow for the first time. However, wet snow cuts should be kept as sharp as possible, so the basic preparation is limited to one to three waxing processes. Even between races where finishing waxes are used, you should always "neutralize" with base waxes. This preserves the good properties of the ski base longer. For cold snow skis, which are only run in appropriate conditions, the basic preparation with harder waxes is recommended, otherwise red is usually used.